Hotties in Laos

8 August 2009
Bit of a tragedy in Kunming, as I appear to have left my bathroom bag there. Containing all the things that keep me pretty (no comments invited). Argh. No doubt this sounds trivial to people with, like, mortgages, but when all you own in the world fits in a backpack, it is gutting to lose a significant portion of that. Realized about halfway to Jinghong, our last stop in the rather remarkable month we've spent in China, and David very sweetly offered to stay behind in the hopes that China Post could get it there in time. Suspect part of the motivation will be that he got to play Independent Traveller for a day or two. But then, I'm a cynical girl. Suspect he will tell the story differemtly--recall that boys cannot be trusted.

Jinghong, unexpected stop on the itinerary, was necessitated by the fact that it was pissing down rain for two days—involuntary upgrade to a hotel it is. Happy to do it, as Jinghong is actually a very cool place. Home to the Dai people, Chinese technically but really more Thai, and closer in food and language to South East Asia. And a lovely meal it was...fried noodles but with loads of fresh veggies, and the bonus of some wifi at the Meimei Cafe. Had slipped on the truck steps (again) and hurt myself (again), so hopped around on a taped up ankle in the rain. Barring that, the fact that the hotel loo smelled a bit of wee, and I have no soap or razors or anything, it was still pretty good. Shopped for tea--it somes in flat disks, about 6 inches around, and is crumbled off to brew. The shops are gorgeous though look like they ought to be selling gremlins round the back.

David stayed behind for previously mentioned bag, and the rest of us trekked on to the border with Laos. China was fantastic, and there is so much more I'd like to do there, but still. After 5+ weeks, ready to be in a new place, new money, new food, etc. Also access to the free media is a nice little thing to have.

The China/Laos border at Boten is a study in contrasts. China is: sleek, shiny, modern, and civilized. Laos is: open-air, peeling paint, a bit dodge, and a relief after China—though they did ask us to specify what race we are. Tempted to say black. Into Laos we come. Stayed in Luang Nam Tha (much closer to the border than guidebooks would have you think, fyi). Lovely, laid back little town built around trekking and hippies and various white people things, with slow wifi and cheap food. Dinner at a place called the Boat Landing, featuring fried river algae—surprisingly edible with the ubiquitous BeerLao. David caught up (minus my beauty regimen—am doomed to be only passably pretty from now on).

Rented pink old lady bikes with Amy, Louise and Deb and sort of rode to a waterfall. Well, Amy made it, and the rest of us gave up halfway. It is unbelievably hot in Laos. Like DC in August, but somewhat more humid. Possibly not the place to be exercising in mid-day. Even halfway led us to pools full of naked Lao kids frolicking like something out of EM Forster, jade-green rice paddies, water buffalo, and various lizard-like chicken things.