Rest and Unrest

8 July 2009

News is limited in China—see the blocking of blogs, CNN, YouTube, etc. It's a precious commodity, and Louise's dad came through with a text to her concerning the political unrest in Xianjiang Province. Where we have been for the last week. Rest easy, kids, we're in Gansu now, the next prefecture over, and all just fine and dandy. The Uighurs (you will be familiar with them if you've been reading along) are rising in demand of independence from the ethnic Chinese who claim this land. Now, it's a bit complicated because the Chinese and local people have been fighting for this place for about 1000 years, back and forth. It also sits atop about 30% of China's oil reserves, which fuel the factories producing all the crap we buy for cheap in the West. China can't afford to give it up, so they've been actively encouraging ethnic Han Chinese to resettle here for generations. The two groups don't mix, which is markedly obvious in Kashgar, half the city like a little Beijing, and half looking like old Kabul.

The regional capital of Urumqi saw real riots this weekend, and there's a bit of protesting in Kashgar itself now too, I gather. It has been on the state-run news a little, and we can see some western news, so I know it's all over the place out there as well. But frankly, it's pretty calm here. Police state and all. Did see a column of army vehicles steadily rolling along towards Xianjiang as we left.

In Dunhuang since last night, at the Fei Tian Hotel. Dunhuang feels like proper China, although we're still in a mixed area technically. Very neat and orderly, loads of neon, and excellent food. David had the famous Dunhuang lurou huang mian—noodles with donkey meat. Uh-huh.

This morning we went out to Mogao, a set of unbelievable Buddhist caves about 25K from the city at the edge of the Gobi Desert. There are hundreds of caverns hand-dug from the sandstone, then plastered and with every square inch painted, filled with sculptures, and generally quite impressive. The statues include two massive Buddhas, both of which it's impossible to see from outside or even in one go—there are two levels of viewing windows carved into the rock, so you can see just the head, or just the feet upwards at a time. Lonely Planet tells me they're one of the greatest repositories of Buddhist art in the world, founded in AD 366, home to 18 monasteries at one point, and only ceased being used when this are became muslim. I tell you they're super cool.

Lunch is not agreeing with me, so am at the hotel using painfully slow wifi to keep my loyal readers informed. David etc have gone to the other sight in Dunhuang, the Singing Sands. Apparently the massive sand dunes make a moaning sound when the wind blows, and you can sled down them. Also ride camels and quad bikes, which I suspect is what they're doing. Am gutted to miss it, but planning to have a nap and rejoin them later for the night market. Souvenir shopping!